Patternmaking for Fashion Design

Prentice Hall
Helen Joseph Armstrong  
Total pages
September 2009

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Patternmaking for Fashion Design
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For an undergraduate course in Patternmaking. Renowned for its comprehensive coverage, exceptional illustrations, and clear instructions, this #1 text offers detailed yet easy-to-understand explanations of the essence of patternmaking. Hinging on a recurring theme that all designs are based on one or more of the three major patternmaking and design principles–dart manipulation, added fullness, and contouring–it provides students with all the relevant information necessary to create design patterns with accuracy regardless of their complexity.




  • Completely updated with modern, cutting-edge sketches and designs.  
  • Ribbing added to the knit section of Chapter 27.
  • More materials on children's wear and swim wear.
  • Knock offs.
  • Fitting corrections—Includes fitting corrections for the basic patterns.
  • A unique section on patternmaking for bias-cut garments.

~ Illustrates a procedure that guides the patternmaker in adjusting design patterns to offset stretch; integrated into chapters covering cowls and bias-cut dresses.

  • Revised drafting instructions and standard measurement charts.

~ Provides a revised procedure for drafting the front and back bodice and the sleeve to reflect the measurements of the newer model forms.

  • Constructed support for strapless designs—Expands upon discussion and includes an additional strapless foundation.
  • Bias-cut dresses—Emphasizes bias-cut dresses that cling to the figure, as influenced by Madeline Vionnett.
  • Advanced design projects—Adds one or two advanced designs to selected chapters.
  • A practical introduction to patternmaking—Opens the book with discussions on the workroom, the model form and measuring techniques, and how to draft the basic pattern set.
  • Complete coverage of the three steps of design patterns: dart manipulation, added fullness, and contouring.
  • Chapter projects—Includes a fashion sketch for each project with an analysis of the design, and focuses on pattern plot and manipulation for developing the patterns.

New to this Edition

New to this Edition!


In addition to the outstanding comprehensive patternmaking coverage, this fifth edition boasts the following new features:

  •  Added tools and up-to-date advances in CAD- E Simulation (Chapter 1)
  • Comparisons of human variations and examples of how to take and record personal measurement (Chapter 2)
  • Self-evaluation tests for the majority of chapters
  • Updated challenging design problems (Chapters 6, 7, 8, 10)
  • Design projects (Chapter 11)
  • Updated placket coverage and banding with sewing instructions (Chapters 14, 21)
  • Expanded menswear (Chapter 22)
  • Fit problems and corrections (Chapter 25)

Table of Contents

1. Patternmaking Essentials for the Workroom
2. Form Measurements and Figure Analysis
3. Drafting the Basic Pattern Set
4. Dart Manipulation. (Principle #1)
5. Designing with Darts (Tuck-Darts, Pleats, Flare and Gathers)
6. Stylelines
7. Added Fullness (Principle #2)
8. Yokes, Flanges, Pin-Tucks, and Pleat Tucks
9. Contouring (Principle #3)
10. Collars
11. Built-up Necklines
12. Cowls
13. Skirts/Circles and Cascades
14. Sleeves
15. Kimono, Raglan, Drop Shoulder, Exaggerated Armholes
16. Buttons, Buttonholes, and Facings
17. Plackets and Pockets
18. Dresses without Wasteline Seams (Based on Torso Foundation)
19. Strapless Foundations and Interconstruction
20. Patternmaking for Bias-Cut Dresses
21. Shirts
22. Women’s Jackets and Coats
23. Men’s Wear
24. Capes and Hoods
25. Knock-Off Copying Ready-Made Designs
26. Pants
27. Knits — Stretch and Shrinkage Factors
28. Knit Top Foundations
29. Activewear for Dance and Exercise
30. Swimwear
31. Introduction to Childrenswear
32. Drafting the Basic Pattern Set: Measurement Taking, Standard Measurement Charts
33. Collars, Sleeves, and Skirts
34. Dresses and Jumpers
35. Tops
36. Pants and Jumpsuits
37. Bodysuits, Leotards, Mailott, and Swimwear